I bought the car with the intention of it being a rolling project. I wanted to get a 2.0 zetec in there before I sorted the body out.
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Once I got her home, had a few issues with dead shockers and a miss fire. soon got that all resolved tho.
I changed the wheels for a set I got for my mk3. More negative offset and 16″
removed the dents and flatted off. The car will be a deep black with pearl laquer in the end. with some purple highlights. thats a long way down the road tho.
the centre bit will be a deep purple.
chopping most off arch off.
Bit of filler and fibre glass
the inlet I got to fit the bike carbs.
New windscreen fitted.
The start of removing the lock
preparing for bike carbs
adding some camber
prepping the manifold
ideally want to retain the trumpets
removing the standard inlet
Taking a few measurements
Carbs removed ready put put on another manifold.
Resting for the night.
Dropping her out.
Left the power steering pump connected to save me cleaning this up. Going to fit and electric pump in its place.
My neighbours are pretty used to this by now.
Brought stuff inside so I can trial fit in the warmth.
Trying to remove the 1.6 gears to fit to the bellhousing I am using.
I didnt manage to get this off so leaving as is for the tiome being.
Goin to replace the half shaft with a full shaft from the mk3 fiesta.
Looks a good fit.
Clutch from my other car, covered about 10 miles in total lol.
The local council popped by to check on things, all in hall there happy the cars not a dumped stolen car.
Im not as strong as i used to be!!!!
In place almost.
Dicided against using this.
Mock up mount.
This is what the final piece will be like for the time being.
So it fits just need to tidy it up and make sure its strong enough.
Tried fitting my carbs but due to the spacing the dont fit. Its too much of a faff to re space them when I was going to upgrade them in the future so I have ordered some bike throttle bodies to go with the st170 manifold I have. I found a compact set to allow room for trumpets.
To get the most out of them and to prepare for boost in the future ill be getting a piggy back ecu. This should make it a bit easier for me to get running and allow me to replace the MAF with a MAP sensor.
Getting the bike bodies prepped to make a bracket and to add a MAP feed and brake cylinder feed
my welding leaves a bit to be desired.
Gettin there now. Ordered my piggy back ecu and the bodies are set to be mounted the the inlet.
Piggy back ECU arrived. Let the confusion commence
I have had a few issues understanding the wiring for the piggy back but think I am getting there now.
7)—Black—Engine coolant temperature sensor (Ect). DET3 pin 15 (det3 running injection shared with stock ecu)
20)—Black—Chassis earth separate from pins 16+40+60. CPS sensor wire 56
25)—White/purple—Air temperature sensor (Act). DET3 pin 16 (det3 running injection shared with stock ecu)
40)—Black/yellow—Chassis earth. Pin 19 DET3 shared
44)—White—Pre cat O2 sensor. DET3 pin 2 for lambda shared with ecu 44
47)—Black__Throttle position sensor (signal wire) Join to DET3 pin 16 leave connected to stock ECU (DET3 pin 13 when running injectors)
50)—White/Blue—Mass air flow meter. DET3 pin 17 to ecu pin 50
55)—Black—Crank position sensor (Cps) pin 2. (positive) DET3 pin 4 to ecu 55,CPS sensor wire to pin 9
56)—Black—Crank position sensor (Cps) pin 1. (negative) DET3 pin 5 to ecu 56, CPS sensor wire to earth pin 20 on stock ECU
57)—Purple/yellow—switched 12v. DET3 pin 1 Shared with stock ECU
60)—Black/yellow—Chassis earth. DET3 pin 11 shared with stock ECU
Vr sensor connection,
Det3 Crank sensor config
In the case of the balanced signal (differential), VR sensor should be connected to the DET3 device as single ended, and connected to the car’s ECU as balanced, using both bipolar outputs. (pin 4,5 DET3)
Polarity of the sensor is crucial in case of the balanced signal. Reversed connecting will cause an inability to start the engine or errors in controlling the ignition.
For the VR sensors, in the menu Setup/Ignition Configuration choose the Ignition Input Type: VR Sensor
Adaptive Threshold. (Applies to the single ended sensors as well as balanced).
Sensor connection with DET3 running injectors
The coolant temperature sensor , intake air temperature sensor and TPS are common for the DET3 device and for the factory ECU.
The DET3 device modifies the ignition angle (by the interception and modification of the signal from the crankshaft position sensor) and the signal from the factory airflow meter. Additionally, the injectors are connected in pairs to the power outputs of the device. (CPS connected to DET3 single ended. DET3 pin 17 MAF feed to ECU pin 50)
The DET3 device has 2 power outputs with the 5A load each. Because of this, we can connect to each of them 4 high-resistance injectors or two low-resistance injectors with the resistor limiting the current (6Ohm, 25W+).
There are three ways of connecting the injectors:
In case of the “Bank fire” mode, for the 4 cylinder engine we should connect the injectors in pairs from cylinder working in the opposite cycle phase. And so, for the engine with the ignition order 1-3-4-2, we should connect injectors in pairs from cylinders 1 – 4 and 3 – 2.
DET 3 pins 18 and 20 are injector output Ford ECU pin 12 injector 1, pin 15 injector 2, pin 34 injector 3, pin 14 injector 4.
Batch fire join DET3 pin 18 or 20 to all injectors.
Bank fire DET3 pin 18 to ECU wires 12,14. DET3 pin 20 to ecu wire 15, 34.
Well after much faffing around I have determined the CLIP ecu pinout is definitely different from the CHCA pinout. I thought the CHCA would just have additional lambda pins but some of the injectors are different.
I cant decide whether to fit this the original way I intended leaving the stock ECU drive the injectors. Or whether to go through the hassle of identifying each pin required.
Managed to get the car warmed up yesterday with stock ecu just ticking over.
So update……….. stressed as fuck just got home from working on the car. I had wired the plug back to front for my piggy back so removed it all connected the ecu back up and turned up the fuel pressure to compensate. Obviously I know this is risky and will still fuel incorrectly but I was hoping I could then pull it on the ramps amd weld the hangers to the rs1800 exhaust system.
When I went to pull forward I found the gears engage fine which is a surprise given im using a clutch from a escort. However I couldn’t pull it on to the ramps as the shaft just span in the cv joint.
By this point I had lost faith and wanted my bed so had an hour in the unit to see if I would wake up with any fresh ideas but I ended up tidying and leaving. Might be able to get there later today and get some more done or bring the car home again. (at this time i was trying a ford Ka long shaft which is 15mm shorter than the escort shaft or so.
Rs1800 exhaust at side of zs system
I know ya shouldnt weld stainless with mild steel stick welder.
So the exhaust is fitted securely. Had to burn off some excess oil from the last engine I had it fitted to. That died due to stem seals and piston rings.
Need to focus on the piggy back and the drive shaft now. I find the car pops and bangs a bit on tick over. Engine sounds better higher up the revs but not played too much as im certain it will be under fuelling.
Testing my wiring before cutting In to the loom again.
Few issues with configuration.
Sooo my brakes dont work. Theres no vacuum for the master cylinder so this is down to my poor workmanship on the inlet. Will be dismantling and re building it this weekend. This will be contributing to fuelling issues as the MAP sensor connects to the same pipe. Managed to drive it round the block at least.
Another turn up for the books. Just picked up a focus for breaking. Goin to be stripping the rear discs off for a conversion. Also taking the engine to build a turbo engine to drop in at a later date.
Grill to replace the broken 1
Touched the grill up.
Wont be taking the engine from the focus as a donor will be selling it instead.
Will be taking the drive shaft mount a few bits of exhaust. The dip stick and all the rear disc set up.
Not sure if its worth taking the fuel pump too as im unsure if it will fit the fiesta tank. Tempted to try and fit the centre console too but dont think theres room between my seats :/
At last a bit of progress. Car idles a tad high but it idles. It has plenty of torque (did a wheel spin with handbrake on) gotta tweak all the settings and get it nice. Think theres a small air leak to investigate.
Drove to the petrol station last night to see how the car holds up. The breaks work which is a bonus since they failed last time.
Was so fun on the way back as decided to give the car a poke. What an animal. Need to stop her smoking tho. Think this is more relative to over fuelling still. Managed to get the idle lower but while driving the revs hang between 2-3 k so think its got way too much fuel being pumped in. ( I later found the smoking was relative to over heating as my water pump was spinning backwards)
I found the idle screw was slowly working its way further up. I have removed this and idle is down and better. Revs dont seem to hang as much but still need to adjust fuel map loads I think.
There was an air leak that comprimised the vacuum fir the servo originally as I had missed a couple of things lol.
The cold weather has defeated my battery so not been able to do any runs to log data. Been doing lots of research on mapping ignition tuning etc. Still waiting my AFR gauge to arrive its only a cheapie so wont be super accurate but will be a indication if im rich or lean. I started rich intentionally to try and be safe and work it back.
Think the water pump has also failed so need to investigate that. If it has I will be converting that to an elec pump along with the PAS pump.
Im fully aware how important the map is but I want to use the car and am completely guessing where the map is at the moment. I have lots of clues to richness but dont want to lean it out without any indication of how far I am going. I will likely stay on the rich side as fuel economy is of no concern at present. I have been asking rob plenty of questions through out the process as im a complete novice on this side of things so thank you both for the input. Im not intending to get peak power at present as the bigger front brakes are not fitted yet and have other thibgs to iron out too like I need a rear beam bush too.
I still need to sort the ignition map too. I tried to find a ford factory ignition map but not had any joy and am not sure how suitable that would be for my set up.
My main goal at present is to smooth out 1-3k revs to not pull so hard when driving in traffic. Also tweak wot 2-5k throttle. And significantly reduce pops and bangs around 4-6.5k I will be setting the rev limit to 7200rpm. I have filled up on high octane as I read this was much safer for the engine in its current state.
Wide band ordered and fitted.
(add more images for wide band fitting)
Wideband fitted and wired in. Drive shaft to make then more mapping. Should be able to drive to focus then to do rear disc conversion on hopefully bigger discs on front too.
Me too most of the time TBH. What im trying to do is get the fuelling correct through the revs to ensure its safe for the engine. The wide bad is a live feed of the air fuel ratio so tells me what its doing and also send the info to my piggy back ecu to allow me to data log it and review it after. ill take some pics of the data graph and post it at some point.
I have a set of Mondeo calipers that im going to clean up and get the Mrs to paint for me. I am thinking just going for black but am also tempted by White what do you guys think? I still need to source some discs to go with the calipers, think I need the 300mm ST170 discs but need to confirm this.
The weather keeps getting in the way of my street side work lol so not been getting as much done as I wanted.
Going to do black calipers and white carriers.
Decided to make a 1 piece drive shaft
Really enjoyed havin a go at this. Wasnt expecting great results.
Test drove it no vibrations and seemed to handle the power well.
But then I ripped the tubing I had welded on. Was to be expected lol ordered an escort drive shaft to replace it instead.
Raised the front end about an inch and think it lools a tad better. not sure if im keen on the bonnet raisers.
Shows the tube twisted and ripped.
coming along nicely. Need to order some discs soon.
What kinda voltage does it put out at WOT and at high load low rpm. Struggling to get my fuelling right at high load and think its relative to how I set it up.
I’m not sure as mines boosted and a 1.7, I think if you clamp it around 3.7v as that’s what iv done and then that’s the max air it can read
Sound that helps me a bit. Do you know hot the ford ecu calculates how much fuel to put in. Is it mainly related to tps position and rpm? And the maf signal dictates load? Reason I ask is cos its always lean at low rpm high load even with 4v sent to ford ecu maf signal. I may be sending a high voltage where a low voltage is required. ( ITB’s increase the air flow a lot in early throttle opening, I resolved this by adjusting the tps SENSOR TO FOOL THE ECU IN TO THINKING THE THROTTLE IS SLIGHTLY OPEN WHEN ITS CLOSED)
I see. How I have it at the moment is the tps is connected to both ecus. The maf signal is sent via the piggyback to the ford ecu so my fuel table is full of voltages. I suspect as its receiving 2v fairly low down the table this may be causing an issue as its not really in line with what the ecu will expect. Ill have another play this weekend and see what I can suss. Had a look on the web a the airflow dictates the load sensing which may be why im having issues as a higher voltage will mean higher rpm but less load and hill starts are my main issue at the moment and I think that will relate to the higher voltage being recieved. I originally thought higher voltage would dictate more fuel. However when i had it idling i changed the cell that was used and it made a minimal difference. But if I rotate the TPS this increases fuel also. i think that both signal may be referenced. Im gonna 0 the whole table and see what happens then and compare.
Trial fitting the arches.
Bit of an update,
I seem to have the car manageable for traffic driving now. AFR sticks around 12 with a bit of leaning out at low load and throttle but cant hear the pinking any more Pulls well through the rev range and pops loads on over run above 2k and below 4.5k as i hoped I had done correctly.
Been lookin at uprated clutches I think im decided on fitting the 1.6 sigma flywheel with an uprated puma clutch to give me an even lighter flywheel. I have also decided I need to fit the ka bellhousing to the fiesta gearbox as the ratios are a little close on the ka box and 1st gear is pointless.
Will be looking at fitting the st170 exhaust manifold over the next week or so to gain a touch more power. No doubt will finish the clutch off to spur me in to replacing that sooner rather than later. hoping to get all the brake disks fitted in next couple of weeks too just awaiting my mate getting me the 300mm disks as he owes me for helping him.
The clutch slips when i boot it too but i dont mind for now. I have posted a couple of clips on instagram and I think a couple on facebook too. I am yet to record any of the pops from over run as im working shifts at the mo and the neighbours have been patient enough as is with out me revving the car at stupid o clock too lol.
Cant wait to fit the st170 manifold as this will change the sound again.Will need to replace the clutch first tho. Since getting the map closer to where it needs to be the engine is much quieter.
When it comes to doing the clutch im considering booking a week off work to fit the rear disc conversion and front big disks too. and hopefully have the zetec s box split so can mount that on the bell housing for some better ratio’s.
I forgot to mention I have now fitted a head unit, unusual for me as i dont put them in very often, i think the last time i had a sound system was 3 or 4 fiestas ago. Im tempted to fit a sub too but reluctant to lose the space just for bass.
Absolutely miffed. Car was playing up again today. Been chasing the fault and was sure it was related to a water leak near the ecu. Well found the problem its the tps sensor from the bodies, it works intermittently so I looked up a 2nd hand sensor and were talking 50 quid so thats a no go for now. New mission tomorrow is to modify the ford tps to fit the triumph throttle bodies. Hope I can get it sussed if not I will try fitting a standard inlet etc for the time being but im sure the bulk head prevented me fitting 1 last time. Grrrrrrrr
I have ordered a 2nd set of throttle bodies to get a tps sensor. I will also port and polish the spare set and use them to mock up a plenum for turbo application. Cant wait to take her to some ford events/meets.
Wow I havent been here for a while. The new clutch worked well. So well I blew my diff to bits. Ordered a new box which took forever to be delivered considering it was 24 hour courier. Just need to paint it and fit it but been a little distracted by something none ford
Got a merc as a fixer
Picked this up to run the kids about and tidy it up. Oh yeah and drift it omce the fez is reliable.
Amd sold the golf to a mate so he can start his sr20det project.
Waiting to fit it
Started polishing the fuel rail
Also got this on eBay. Unsure whether will be used on this fez or if I’m gonna build a sleeper too.
A little bit sore from my crash so wont be doin owt on fez for a short while. Need to see what happens with claim etc too.
Havin a few clearance issues but working round them.
I have resolved the issue with my water pump running backwards. I had forgotten to fit an idler pulley on the side of the block.
Got one side on
Gettin saved from the dreaded rot
Exhaust manifold fitting
ecu wiring loom
made the loom for the det3 to join on to the injection loom. i later changed this to join nearer the ecu plug in the foot well.
st170 engine prep
ported the inlet
bigger tapered throttle bodies